TGOC 2014 - Day 11: Gelder Shiel to Queen's Well

Monday 19th May 2014

A long day walking in the hills of the eastern Mounth, including Conachcraig & Mount Keen 

Distance: 31km; Ascent: 1300m; Warm & sunny, but misty on the tops; Mostly solo

See tracked route in new window

The weather was forecasted to be good today, which was promising as it was due to be my penultimate day up in the hills on this year's crossing.  I had a reasonably leisurely start to the day and found that half the tents had already gone by the time I got up!  And by the time I set off walking just after 9am, there were only a couple of tents remaining.

Just a couple of tents remaining as I set off walking

I followed the riverside path along the Gelder Burn for a few hundred metres before it petered out into the heather.  Therefore I opted to head directly across the rough ground to an area of recently burnt heather and on up to the vehicle track.  Perhaps I should I just taken the slightly longer way round via vehicle tracks instead from the bothy!

Lochnagar from near Gelder Shiel

Last views back to the Cairngorms on the way up Conachcraig

I ascended along the vehicle track for a couple of kilometres, past Little Conachcraig, before deciding that it was time to begin my ascent up to my first hill of the day: Conachcraig.  The ascent was up some pretty steep rough, rocky and heathery ground, so it took a while to pick my way through.  I saw a couple of ptarmigan on my ascent up into the mist; the cloud base was at around 800m so the tops were only just cloud covered!

Eventually I reached the summit of the subsidiary top of Caisteal na Caillich (Corbett Top) at around quarter past eleven.  A reasonably pleasant misty walk over the plateau, punctuated with granite outcrops brought me to the higher summit of Conachcraig (Corbett, Marilyn) around thirty minutes later.

On the summit of Conachcraig

After a quick break I descended SW by way of a path back down to the vehicle track; clearly this was the most popular way to ascend this Corbett!  My pace increased noticeably as I followed the reasonable track down towards Glen Muick.

Heading down the track into Glen Muick

Soon I caught sight of another couple of backpackers ahead of me; I wondered if they were probably challengers too.  I didn't have to wonder too long as I had soon caught up with them and discovered that they were Laura & Louise, who thought I was slightly crazy to have nipped up Conachcraig on route from Gelder Shiel!

In the Glen Muick woods

Louise & Laura approaching Allt-na-giubhsaich

I walked down through the woods with them and past a shuttered up building near Allt-na-giubhsaich to reach the floor of the glen.  A pleasant flat kilometre or so led across the glen and over the River Muick.

Crossing the River Muick

Soon we reached the visitor centre at the Spittal of Glen Muick, where we stopped for lunch on a handy bench outside in the warm sunshine :-).

After a reasonably long and restful break in the sunshine, I decided that I'd better get going again as I still had to get over to the Water of Mark if I was going to fit Mount Keen into my day tomorrow.  Therefore at around 2pm I set off walking up alongside the pleasant Allt Darrarie.  Lynsey and I had previously walked this way back in 2008, during the only few hours of rain of our entire crossing!

The Allt Darrarie

Bridge over the Allt Darrarie

Higher up the path ends around a stream confluence, and I followed the left hand branch of the Burn of Mohamed up onto the peaty and heathery moorland above.  Back in 2008 we'd headed towards the Shielin of Mark, but this time I opted to bypass it and instead aim to pick up the Water of Mark further downstream.

The Burn of Mohamed

The upper part of the Burn of Mohamed

After reaching the headwaters of the Burn of Mohamed, I crossed the peat hags for a few hundred metres before picking up another burn heading SE towards the Water of Mark.  This made for a reasonably pleasant route and I was soon walking downstream along the Water of Mark.

For the first couple of kilometres along the river, I was able to cross at will to pick the easiest line although this was only possible due to the low water level.  As I got further downstream the glen became more well defined with steeper sides, meaning that I was sometimes down at water level and other times picking a way across the heather slopes high up above the burn.

The Water of Mark a couple of km downstream from Shielin of Mark

Looking down Glen Mark

The Water of Mark near Craig Michael, with Mount Keen in the distance

After a lovely couple of hours walking down Glen Mark, I reached my planned halt for the day around the northernmost point of the Water of Mark at 5pm.  However it seemed too early to stop walking on such a wonderful afternoon, and with the tops of the hills forecast to be in cloud tomorrow I decided to press on and climb Mount Keen this evening!

My original plan had been to follow one of the side streams up onto the moorland, but I'd noticed that the slopes of Little Hill seemed to offer a grassy alternative ascent.  This turned out to be quite pleasant initially, but soon turned into rough heathery moorland.  However there were lots of mountain hares bounding around on the moor this evening, which were entertaining to watch :-).

Looking East towards Mount Keen

A hazy view down into Glen Tanar from the NW slopes of Mount Keen

I picked a route across the peaty moorland for a few kilometres to reach the Mounth Road track, which I crossed and ascended to join the track heading up the NW slopes of Mount Keen.  At around half-past seven I reached the trigpoint and summit rocks of Mount Keen (Munro, Marilyn), just as the mist started to descend!  However there were still hazy views down towards Glen Tanar when the mist thinned.

The summit rocks of Mount Keen

On the misty summit of Mount Keen

I had a pleasant rest, savouring my last mountain summit of this year's crossing.  However eventually I decided that perhaps I'd better actually descend off this rocky and windy hill top and actually find somewhere to camp!  A good path led south, past a boundary stone, towards Glen Mark.  A while later this turned into a vehicle track, which I followed down to the Ladder Burn.

Boundary stone on Mount Keen

The track alongside the Ladder Burn

I had wondered whether there might be anywhere to camp alongside this burn, but it all looked to be unpleasantly heathery so I opted to continue my descent towards Glen Mark.  Soon after 9pm I reached Glenmark cottage and headed towards the Queen's Well in search of somewhere to camp.

Looking back to Glenmark cottage at dusk

Looking up Glen Mark at dusk

After deciding that the Queen's Well wasn't really an inviting spot to camp, I finally pitched the tent down near the Water of Mark.  It was now almost 9:30pm and I'd had been walking for over twelve hours so I was now pretty tired!  However it did mean that I was only around 9km away from Tarfside, which would mean for a short day tomorrow :-).

TGOC 2014 - Day 6: Chalybeate Spring to Newtonmore

Wednesday 14th May 2014 

An excellent high-level day over two Munros on the edge of the Monadhliath Mountains 

Distance: 29.5km; Ascent: 680m; Dry and sunny, followed by showers; Mainly with John B

See tracked route in new window

I woke at around 5am this morning due to the cold - there was a heavy frost outside and ice on the inside on my flysheet!  Therefore I added an extra layer and soon was back asleep for a couple of hours.  The vast majority of the other challengers camped at Chalybeate Spring were heading east from here, whereas I was planning on detouring to bag a Munro: Geal Charn.  This therefore meant that I set off walking alone at around 9am and followed the burn southwards to reach Loch na Lairige, which looked like it might be a pleasant spot to camp.

Camp by the Allt Mor

The Crom Allt below Loch na Lairige

The outflow of Loch na Lairige

Loch na Lairige

From Loch na Lairige I followed the Allt an Iuit up past several large snowfields to eventually reach the NE shoulder of Geal Charn, where I picked up a faint path through the moorland.  Around here I bumped into John Braide again!  He had just come from the summit, but opted to turn around and retrace his steps with me to the large summit cairn of Geal Charn (Munro, HuMP), which we reached at around half past eleven.

Snowfield SE of Loch na Lairige

Looking back to Loch na Lairige

Snowfields above the Allt an Iuil

On the summit of Geal Charn

Geal Charn summit cairn

John & I both had the same route planned for the next few hours, so after a short break we set off walking together in a north-easterly direction over the gentle rolling hills of the Monadhliath.  There were excellent views in all directions as we passed over the summit of Carn na Criche (Corbett Top) and the summit of Cairn Ewen before reaching the summit of Carn Odhar na Criche (Corbett Top), where we picked up a line of fence posts.

Looking NE from Geal Charn

Carn Odhar na Criche

From here we dropped ESE to seek some shelter from the brisk wind for a spot of lunch, before continuing on over Beinn Odhar and the former Munro Top of Sneachdach Slinnean before bumping into Chris Townsend and Tony Hobbs again.

Superfluous gate on the west slopes of Sneachdach Slinnean

Looking towards Carn Dearg from Sneachdach Slinnean

We walked together to the summit of Carn Ban (Munro Top), before continuing on to my final hill of the day: Carn Dearg (Munro, Marilyn), whose summit we reached at around twenty past three this afternoon.  As we reached the summit the threatening clouds finally started to rain, so we didn't linger long here.

John, Chris and Tony heading for Carn Dearg

Carn Dearg from the NNW

One of the remaining snow patches on Carn Dearg

Gleann Ballach from Carn Dearg

Summit cairn of Carn Dearg

We retraced our steps back to the bealach, where John left to continue on his high-level route through the Monadhliath for another day, whilst Chris, Tony & I descended NE into the coire at the head of Gleann Ballach.  Here we bumped into a team of balloon herders, also known as Andy, Alan and Phil, whose cheese and wine party I had attended last night.  After stopping for a chat, they continued down Gleann Ballach whilst Chris, Tony & I crossed over into the next glen to the east.

Alan, Andy & Phil in Gleann Ballach

Footbridge over the Allt Fionndrigh

After missing the start of the path shown on the OS map, we had a steep descent down to the Allt Fionndrigh, which we boulder-hopped across before finding that there was a bridge a few hundred metres further downstream.  By now it was around 5pm and as I was due to be meeting Martin in Newtonmore for a pub meal I picked up my pace and headed off down the vehicle track towards Glen Banchor.

Looking back up Glen Banchor

Soon after joining the minor road, I came across a welcome sign tied to a nearby tree - free tea, coffee and cakes! :-)

A welcome sign :-)

The River Calder NW of Newtonmore

Spurred on by the thought of this, I continued along the minor road into Newtonmore to reach the excellent Newtonmore Hostel, where I found Martin and I were sharing a room.  Martin headed out to the pub shortly after I arrived, whilst I enjoyed tea and cake before unpacking, grabbing a shower and heading over to the pub to join him.

I enjoyed a most sociable evening in the Glen Hotel with Martin, Markus, Philipp, Laura, Louise, David, Ali & Sue amongst many others :-)

TGOC 2014 - Day 2: Glen Arnisdale to Loch Quoich

Saturday 10th May 2014

A low level walk from Glen Arnisdale to Kinloch Hourn, followed by an afternoon ascent of the Munro of Sgurr a'Mhaoraich 

Distance: 25km; Ascent: 1870m; Wet in the morning - warm & sunny in afternoon; Solo

See tracked route in new window

I woke to rain this morning and so didn't make much of an effort to get an early start!  As I hadn't ascended up to my planned camp on the Druim Fada ridge last night, I decided due to the rain not to bother going up high today due to the weather.  Therefore I set off walking at around half eight, in showery light rain, and headed east along the reasonable track to reach the Dubh Lochain.

Looking down Glen Arnisdale in the morning rain

Waterfall at the outlet of the Dubh Lochain

The walk through the woods to reach the loch was pleasant enough and I was rewarded with an impressive fall of water tumbling out of the outlet of the Dubh Lochain.  I continued along the north shore of the loch before stopping to resupply with water just beyond the eastern end of the loch.  I had declined to collect water from the previous couple of burns I had passed due to the proximity of them to dead sheep - therefore I spent time checking upstream of this burn prior to filling my bottle!

I then continued along the track to cross another burn by way of a a handy bridge, which like all the bridges I had encountered so for in Glen Arnisdale had a sign warning me that I crossed at my own risk and that horses weren't allowed to use it.  Luckily I didn't have any horses with me today, so I happily crossed the bridge and continued for a few hundred metres to a track junction.

The Dubh Lochain

Bridge over the Allt an Tomain Odhair

This warning sign seems to be displayed on the all the bridges in Glen Arnisdale

The junction was the point at which my foul weather route from yesterday joined up with today's route, together with the line of pylons that stretches from Skye to Invergarry via Kinloch Hourn and Loch Quoich.  Soon I had to the ford the Abhainn Ghleann Dubh Lochain, which today posed no problems as I was able to boulder hop my way across - however I could imagine this could be quite tricky if it were in spate!  I then ascended up a reasonable track, with good views back down Gleann Dubh Lochain.

Looking down Gleann Dubh Lochain

Soon I reached Lochain Torr a'Choit, where I had considered camping last night had I been on my FWA.  However I was glad I hadn't as at first glance there didn't appear to be any nice spots to pitch!  I crossed the Allt a'Coire Reidh by way of a bridge and began ascending again, with good views back towards Loch Hourn and the east end of the Druim Fada ridge.

Loch Hourn and Druim Fada

Around here I met my first other person of the day: a walker out walking their dog.  I continued and began to ascend down towards the forest above Kinloch Hourn.  My original plan had been to traverse above this forest, cross the Allt Coire Sgoireadail and ascend up onto Sgurr a'Mhaoraich.  However given that it was still raining I decided instead to descend to Kinloch Hourn, where I stopped at the tea room :-)

The Kinlochhourn tea rooms :-)

There was a handful of other challengers here, the first I'd met since leaving Glenelg, and it was nice to chat to them whilst I enjoyed my tea and scone :-)  After the best part of an hour I decided it was time to make a move and I went outside to discover that the weather had significantly improved since I had arrived at Kinloch Hourn!  Therefore I decided that I'd spend the afternoon climbing my planned Munro: Sgurr a'Mhaoriach, although not by the route I had originally intended to.

The Lochourn River

I had a quick chat with Alan Hardy who had just arrived at the tea room, before I set off in shorts and t-shirt, which made a pleasant change from this morning when I walked in full waterproofs!  I followed the road along the Lochourn River for around a kilometre and a half to reach Loch Coire Shubh.  Here I stopped for a short break to discover that I had four ticks on my legs!  These were swiftly removed and trouser legs donned for the rest of the day in an attempt to prevent any more ticks biting me!

Loch Coire Shubh

I had decided to ascend Sgurr a'Mhaoraich by way of the descent route in the Pocket Mountains: West Highlands guidebook, which involved ascending along the route of the pylons before heading steeply up the rocky NW ridge of Meall an Uillt Bhain.  This was a nice ascent, although it was completely pathless and hard work in the heat of this afternoon!  I was however rewarded with excellent views out over Loch Hourn :-)

Looking down to Loch Hourn from the NW ridge of Meall an Uillt Bhain

Shortly before 5pm I topped out on the 607m high summit of Meall an Uillt Bhain (Highland Five), from where there were excellent views.  I studied the SW slopes of Sgurr a'Mhaoraich from here to attempt to pick an ascent route avoiding as much of the steep craggy ground as possible.

The SW slopes of Sgurr a'Mhaoraich from Meall an Uillt Bhain

Gairich, Sgurr an Fhuarain & Sgurr Mor from the SW slopes of Sgurr a'Mhaoraich

The ascent was pleasant enough, and initially I followed what appeared to be the remains of an old stalkers' path, although this faded after a few hundred metres.  There were good views out towards the hills on the south side of Loch Quoich from here: Gairich, Sgurr an Fhuarain & Sgurr Mor, which I had been planning on traversing on my last TGOC back in 2010.  I continued on upwards into intermittent mist to reach the summit of Sgurr a' Mhaoraich Beag (Munro Top) at around 6pm.

Summit of Sgurr a' Mhaoraich Beag

Between Sgurr a'Mhaoraich Beag & Sgurr a'Mhaoraich

Continuing eastwards along the ridge between Sgurr a'Mhaoraich Beag and Sgurr a'Mhaoraich I stumbled across a well camouflaged ptarmigan hiding next to the rocks, which seemed surprised to see me but didn't fly away.  I guessed it was probably protecting its nest and moved quickly on past to avoid disturbing it any more!

Ptarmigan

At around twenty past six this evening I finally reached the lofty summit of Sgurr a'Mhaoraich (Munro, Marilyn).  The cloud had mainly lifted above me by now so there were excellent views from here :-)  I rested a while to enjoy the views before deciding that it was time to begin my descent down to the valley to seek out somewhere to camp.

My original plan had been to descend down to Alltbeithe for the evening and ascend the north ridge of Gleouraich tomorrow morning.  However tomorrow's forecast, coupled with the large amount of snow I had seen on the north side of Gleouraich from the coach on Thursday, meant that I decided to take the easier option instead of descending to Loch Quoich, from where I would be able to pick up a good stalkers' path for tomorrow morning's ascent.

Summit of Sgurr a'Mhaoraich

Looking east down to Easter Glen Quoich and Gleouraich from Sgurr a'Mhaoraich

The descent east along the ridge was good, with lovely views to keep me going after what was turning out to be quite a long day's walk!  There were occasional showers to contend with, although this did mean that I was rewarded with a rainbow over Loch Quoich!  I continued on over the summit of Sgurr Coire nan Eiricheallach (Corbett Top) and started to descend southwards along the Bac nan Canaichean ridge.

Rainbow over Loch Quoich

Looking along the Sgurr Coire nan Eiricheallach ridge

Lower down I stopped to collect water for the evening from one of the many burns that drained this waterlogged hillside.  I then started to keep an eye open for potential camping spots for the evening but nothing took my fancy so I continued down along the stalkers' path to reach the road many hours after having left it!  I had previously heard that there might be some flat spots to pitch near the Loch Quoich bridge, and I found a spot close to the start of the vehicle track to Alltbeithe.

It was around 9pm when I finally pitched the tent this evening!  It appeared that I had picked a relatively ticky spot to pitch as I had to brush several off my hands after pitching the tent!  Therefore that evening I had the inner tent open as little as possible in an attempt to kept the ticks out, which actually seemed to work as I didn't get any further bites :-)  I had a quick dinner before drifting off to sleep after a very long, but good, day.