Dales Way - Day 3: Buckden to Ribblehead

Friday 21st February 2014 

My return to the Yorkshire Dales to walk along the Dales Way from Buckden to Ribblehead 

Distance 23km; Ascent: 550m; Mainly wet, but occasional dry spells; Solo

See tracked route in new window

After several hours of travelling by train and bus I set off walking from Buckden in full waterproofs at around 11:30am this morning.  I followed the pleasant riverside path along the SW banks of the River Wharfe, in the rain, to reach the small hamlet of Hubberholme, where there were lots of snowdrops in the churchyard.

St. Michael and All Angels Church, Hubberholme

River Wharfe just west of Hubberholme

The Dales Way continued westwards along the north bank of the river and I soon reached Yockenthwaite, before continuing along the path to re-cross the river at Deepdale Bridge.  By now the rain had stopped and I took the opportunity of a dry lunch break near a small waterfall.

Looking downstream from Deepdale Bridge

Small section of rapids above Deepdale Bridge

The break in the rain didn't last long and I was soon continuing on upstream to reach the confluence of Green Field Beck with the River Wharfe near Beckermonds.  A couple of kilometres of road walking now lay ahead to reach the small village of Oughtershaw where I left the road behind.

Looking up the River Wharfe towards Beckermonds

Confluence of Green Field Beck and the River Wharfe

Lone postbox near Beckermonds

A farm access track made for relatively quick walking westwards past Nethergill to reach Swarthgill farm.  From here a muddy path headed further westwards towards the watershed near Cam Houses.

Looking west over the watershed towards Ingleborough

There were noticeably large areas of new tree plantations on the south side of the head of the boggy looking valley.  I continued heading west and soon crossed the Pennine watershed.  The River Wharfe, which I had been following for the first two and a half days of the Dales Way drains into the North Sea, whereas on the west side of this watershed the burns flow into the River Ribble, which drains into the Irish Sea.

Looking back towards the headwaters of Oughtershaw Beck

After passing Cam Houses I passed the edge of a forestry plantation, which looked to have suffered somewhat in the recent storms as there were quite a few fallen trees.  After a little bit more ascent I reached the junction with the Pennine Way and the Pennine Bridleway, which here both follow the Cam High Road.

Cairn at Junction of Dales Way and Pennine Way

A good track made for quick walking south-westwards, in a hail storm, and I soon came to a track junction not marked on my maps.  It appeared that a new access road had been built for the forestry plantation at Cam Woodlands.  This track joined the Cam High Road at this junction and followed the Dales Way all the way to the road.

New forestry road

Looking down the upgraded Cam High Road towards Ingleborough and Ribblehead

By now it was late afternoon, so I continued downhill along the upgraded track, which was now more like a forest road than an old track - it certainly seemed quite different from when I was late walking this way back in September 2008.  A new heavy-duty looking bridge across Gayle Beck brought me to the B6255 road, which I followed in fading light to reach my overnight halt at the Station Inn at Ribblehead.

New bridge over Gayle Beck

I reached the pub shortly after 6pm, where I enjoyed a good meal along with some excellent real ale after another good day's walking :-)

Offa's Dyke Path - Index of Posts

Back in January of this year I walked my final section of the Offa's Dyke Path, which I had been walking in sections since January 2012, and this post is an index to all my blog posts on the subject.  As on previous long distance paths, I adopted a section walking approach using a combination a trains, buses and occasionally taxis to allow me to walk 2, 3 or 4 days of the path at a time.  I also deviated from the route in various places, either to climb extra hills, take a short-cut or to reach transport home; therefore these are reflected in the distance and ascent figures below.

Moel Arthur from the south

The first section I walked was from Prestatyn on the North Wales coast to the village of Llandegla over two days, including a lovely traverse of the Clwydian Range in January 2012.  Here are my posts on each day:

• Day 1: Prestatyn to Bodfari - 21km, 680m ascent
• Day 2: Bodfari to Llandegla - 28km, 1280m ascent

One of the first sections of the Offa's Dyke that I encountered

Then in early March 2012, I walked my second section of the trail from from Llandegla to Welshpool over three days, which included my first section of the Offa's Dyke itself.  Here are my daily posts:

• Day 3: Llandegla to Trevor - 21.5km, 750m ascent
• Day 4: Trevor to Llanymynech - 30.5km, 980m ascent
• Day 5: Llanymynech to Welshpool - 20km, negligible ascent

Beacon Ring hill fort from the SW

Next it was a two day section from Welshpool to Knighton, including Beacon Ring and The Switchbacks, in early March 2013:

• Day 6: Welshpool to Mellington Hall Campsite - 24km, 670m ascent
• Day 7: Mellington Hall Campsite to Knighton - 24.5km, 1250m ascent

Hatterrall Hill

Easter 2013 saw me walk in the snow from Knighton to Pandy, via Kington, Hergest Ridge and the Black Mountains, and then on over Ysgyryd Fawr to Abergavenny station:

• Day 8: Knighton to Kington - 22km, 730m ascent
• Day 9: Kington to Hay-on-Wye - 24.5km, 900m ascent
• Day 10: Hay-on-Wye to Pandy - 27km, 800m ascent
• Day 10a: Pandy to Abergavenny - 12km, 410m ascent

Chepstow Castle

Finally this January I returned to Abergavenny and walked from near Pandy to Sudbury Cliffs over two and a half days.  This was a mainly stormy weekend, but it was bright and sunny when I finished the path at Sedbury Cliffs.  Here are my posts on the three days:

• Day 11: Near Pandy to Monmouth - 26km, 460m ascent
• Day 12: Monmouth to Chepstow - 28.5km, 1120m ascent
• Day 13: Chepstow to Sedbury Cliffs - 6.5km, 150m ascent

The Offa's Dyke Path was the second National Trail that I've walked (the first was the Pennine Way) and I found it to be an enjoyable long distance path to walk with plenty of variety.

My Final Welsh 2000ft Peak

Sunday 16th March 2014

Today I went for a walk at the western end of the Nantlle Ridge in Snowdonia to climb Mynydd Craig Goch, which was my final Welsh 2000ft peak. The photo before shows me on the rocky summit. More details and photos from a good weekend hill walking in North Wales will follow soon.

posted from Bloggeroid

Daffodils at Dunham Massey

Tuesday 11th March 2014

Here's a quick photo of some of the lovely daffodils in Dunham Massey's winter garden this afternoon :-)

posted from Bloggeroid

An Afternoon Stroll at Tatton Park

Sunday 9th March 2014

It was a lovely sunny day today so we headed out for a family day to enjoy the nice weather at Tatton Park.  We had a good afternoon stroll of around 4km around part of the deer park near Melchett Mere and Tatton Mere, and here are a few photos:

Melchett Mere

Lone Deer in Tatton Park

Melchett Mere

In Tatton Park near Melchett Mere

Offa's Dyke Path - Day 13: Chepstow to Sedbury Cliffs

Monday 27th January 2014 

A short morning walk down to Sedbury Cliffs to finish the Offa's Dyke Path :-) 

Distance: 6.5km; Ascent: 150m; Mainly sunny; Solo

See tracked route in new window

After yesterday's wet day, today dawned bright and sunny :-)  I set off walking from outside Chepstow castle at around 9am and crossed back over the old bridge into England, with good views to the steep limestone cliffs above the tidal River Wye.

Chepstow Castle

Chepstow Castle from the old bridge

For the next couple of kilometres my route took me along urban footpaths and through housing estates before I met the Offa's Dyke again near Buttington Tump.  A pleasant half-kilometre of walking along the dyke was all I had left to complete the Offa's Dyke Path.

Last section of Offa's Dyke

Soon I reached a large stone at the top of Sedbury Cliffs, which marks the southern end of the Offa's Dyke Path.  I rested here for a few minutes to contemplate the completion of my second National Trail, which I had started almost two years ago to the day.

Plaque marking the southern end of the Offa's Dyke Path

Just finished the Offa's Dyke Path :-)

There were good views from here across the River Severn and downstream towards the old Severn Bridge.  After feeling suitably refreshing I decided it was time to return to Chepstow, but by way of a slightly different route to make this morning's walk a bit of a circular walk instead.  A path ran SW along the top of the cliffs to reach the edge of the foreshore, again with good views towards the Severn Bridge.

The Severn Bridge from below Sedbury Cliffs

I followed an alternative footpath back to the road and Buttington Tump and then as time was getting on I decided to follow the road through Sedbury directly back to Chepstow.  I arrived back at the hotel at around quarter to 11 and just had time for a quick shower and to finish packing up before the check out time of 11am.  I now had a little over an hour before my train home, so I decided to go for a wander around the impressive ruins of Chepstow Castle.

The River Wye from Chepstow Castle

Chepstow Castle's 12th century doors

Chepstow Castle

The Great Tower, Chepstow Castle

Looking down the Wye from Chepstow Castle

Chepstow Castle

After spending 45 minutes or so exploring the castle and climbing the various spiral staircases to viewpoints on the tops of towers I headed for the station after a good 2.5 days walking along the southern most part of the Offa's Dyke Path.

See also my Social Hiking live map from the walk.

Offa's Dyke Path - Day 12: Monmouth to Chepstow

Sunday 26th January 2014 

My last full day of walking along the Offa's Dyke Path, from Monmouth down the Wye Valley to Chepstow 

Distance: 28.5km; Ascent: 1120m; Heavy rain followed by sunshine and blustery showers; Solo

See tracked route in new window

I woke early this morning to check the updated weather forecast: the heavy rain was now forecast to end around lunchtime, so therefore I didn't hurry to set off as there was a chance I might get some dry weather walking done in the afternoon!  The boiler appeared to have been fixed overnight so I was actually able to have a shower before having breakfast and setting off walking in full waterproofs at around 9:30am.  The first ascent of the day brought me to the deserted grounds of The Kymin, from where there were reasonable views back down to Monmouth.

Looking W from The Kymin

The Kymin Roundhouse

After a short break in the rain on one of the handily located benches overlooking Monmouth, I followed the Offa's Dyke Path south to a good track, which gave quick walking down to Redbrook.  After a section of road walking through the village, I began to ascend again - this time on a very wet path with views back to the old railway bridge at Lower Redbrook.

A wet morning near Lower Redbrook

Soon I met up with the Offa's Dyke again, for the first time since Kington, and I followed it southwards through fields and woodland, some of it owned by the Woodland Trust.  By the time I reached the southern end of the woods it had finally stopped raining!  So I decided to stop for lunch at a usefully located picnic table by the deserted car park.

Bigsweir Bridge

From here I had a choice of routes as the map shows two alternatives for the Offa's Dyke Path.  Given the time I decided to take the riverside option, which is apparently the easier option.  I followed the pleasant riverside path, which was muddy in places, downstream next to the muddy waters of the River Wye.  About half-way between Bigsweir and Brockweir the path had been eroded by the river, which according to the Gloucestershire Council sign happened last May.  However by following the instructions on the sign I was able to negotiate a route around this bank slip and continue my progress downstream.

River Wye between Bigsweir and Brockweir

At Brockweir I stopped for a quick break on a handy bench overlooking Brockweir Quay, which was apparently the last tidal quay for boats travelling up the River Wye.

Brockweir Quay and Bridge

An ascent of almost 200m from Brockweir brought me back to the Offa's Dyke itself in Caswell Wood.  Continuing on through the woods, I came to a footpath sign that indicated that it was only another 6.5 miles to Sedbury Cliffs, where I would be finishing the Offa's Dyke Path tomorrow morning.

Back on the Offa's Dyke itself

Only 6.5 miles to go!

For much of this section, the views down into the Wye Valley were severely restricted by the woodland.  However at the Devil's Pulpit and Plumweir Cliff there were gaps in the trees, which afforded excellent views across the the valley to the remains of Tintern Abbey.

Tintern Abbey from the Devil's Pulpit

Tintern Abbey from Plumweir Cliff

After a bit more woodland walking I reached the busy B4228 road, which I followed for a few hundred metres before picking up a footpath again.  By now it was getting late and the light was beginning to fade, so when I next reached the B4228 road I decided to follow it instead.  There was a fine view into the valley from the top of Wintour's Leap - however I didn't linger long here as a hail storm had just arrived!  I continued along the B4228 to the northern edge of Tutshill, where I followed a combination of minor roads and paths down to the river at Chepstow's old bridge.  My accommodation for the evening lay a short walk away, opposite the castle, and I enjoyed a roast dinner that evening after my longest day's walking in several months.

See also my Social Hiking live map from the walk.